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Acura ILX TL TSX TLX RL RLX Factory 8 Inch Subwoofer PNP Upgrade Package

This subwoofer package includes the Kicker 8 inch subwoofer, the subwoofer mounting bracket, and the subwoofer wiring to make installation plug and play. This subwoofer can work with the factory amplifier or our plug and play amplifiers. This subwoofer package works with the following Acuras. Acura TL from years 2009 to 2014, Acura TSX from 2009 to 2014, Acura ILX from years 2013 to 2022, Acura TLX from years 2015 to 2020 and Acura RLX from years 2014 to 2020. This subwoofer package will work for on a base, premium or ELS sound system . Our subwoofer packages ship next day and arrive within 3-5 business days to most US states. Your subwoofer is covered with a one year warranty. If you have a 2021 or 2022 Acura ILX please choose the 2020 option from the dropdown.

While this subwoofer upgrade package won’t rattle the windshield in your car it does provide better bass response than the factory subwoofer. If your factory subwoofer is blown the difference in bass output will be extreme. If you are looking to get the most out of this subwoofer upgrade we also recommend upgrading the amplifier that powers this subwoofer. You can save your self some money by installing this subwoofer yourself following the guides below. If you want to have this subwoofer installed professionally it is about 2 hours of installation time on the Acuras mentioned above.

When replacing your factory subwoofer there are three main specifications your new must subwoofer must meet. One is that it must be a free air subwoofer as the factory subwoofer is not fully enclosed. The second is that it must be 8 inches and not exceed 6 inches in depth so that it may fit in the factory location. The last specification is that its final impedance must be two ohms to not cause any issues with the factory amplifier. This Kicker subwoofer meets all of those specifications and fits into the factory location with the use of our adapter bracket. The kicker subwoofer also has a flat surround which stops it from rubbing against the rear deck.

In order to achieve the best bass output we recommend applying sound treatment to the rear deck and the rear deck cover. This sound treatment is to minimize rattle and increase acoustical output to your ears. The sound treatment is an additional purchase. We offer some options you can check them out here.

Installation

To install the subwoofer upgrade you will need to remove the rear seats if they do not fold down. You will then need to remove the C-Pillar covers, and the rear deck cover. The tools you will need include a ratchet, ratchet extensions, a 10mm socket, a panel removal tool, a clip removal tool and a towel or blanket to protect parts of your interior. If you are completing the install your self and its the first time removing the rear seats, we suggest setting aside 2-4 hours to complete the installation. If you are looking for instructions you will find them down below. If you have questions regarding installation or the product please call us at 877-542-2872.

If you are looking to install a different subwoofer but need the adapter bracket you can find it here.

2009 – 2014 Acura TSX Instructions

2010 – 2014 Acura TL Instructions

2013 – 2022 Acura ILX instructions

2015 – 2022 Acura TLX Instructions

2014 – 2022 Acura RLX Instructions

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this subwoofer louder than the factory subwoofer?
A: Yes this subwoofer is slightly louder than the factory because it is more efficient.
Does this subwoofer handle more power than the factory subwoofer?
A: Yes this subwoofer is rated for 200W RMS
How much power does the factory amplifier output to the subwoofer?
A: About 50-60 Watts
If I install this subwoofer will it shake my car?
A: This subwoofer has the potential to shake your car but it will need another amplifier to power it to its full potential.
I installed this subwoofer but its not much louder than the old one, what did I do wrong?
A: Upgrading the subwoofer only doesn’t give your vehicle more bass, you also need to upgrade the amplifier powering the subwoofer.
How does my warranty work?
A: As long as there is no physical damage to your subwoofer and you are within your warranty period you can exchange your subwoofer for a new one.

Acura TL MDX TSX License Plate Light Backup Camera

If you are thinking about adding a backup camera to your Acura this camera installs with ease. By replacing the license plate light housing with the housing provided with the camera you are able to install the backup camera without having to drill any new holes and the final installation looks OEM.

This camera comes in two options with fixed parking lines or with active parking lines. If you are going to be using the parking line adjustments on your radio we recommend you get the fixed parking line version and then disable them. You can view the difference in the parking lines in the images.

There are two ways to install this camera. You can set it up to always be on so you can hit the camera button on your radio and view it at anytime or have the power only power on when you are in reverse. The reverse only installation is easier to complete.

Below are the specifications of the cameras

The specs of the fixed parking line camera are as follows:

IP Rating: IP68
Resolution (TV lines): 800
Lens Angle (Deg.): 170°
Power Supply (DCV): 12V
Minimum Illumination: 0.1LUX

The specs of the active parking line camera are as follows:

IP Rating: IP67
Resolution (TV lines): 600
Lens Angle (Deg.): 170°
Power Supply (DCV): 9V-12V
Minimum Illumination: 0.1LUX

You can view our installation video here.

This camera works with the following Models:

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Acura MDX
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Acura TL
2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Acura TSX
2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2013 Acura TSX Sedan
2007 2008 2009 Acura RDX

Acura Rear Deck or Rear Door Speaker Upgrade — JBL SQ 6.5″ Speakers Factory-Fit Wiring and Adapters for ELS & 2Ω Systems

What is the Acura rear door or deck speaker upgrade kit?

The rear door/deck upgrade kit is a pair of coaxial speakers paired with all the accessories needed to make your install fully plug and play. It requires no wire splicing and no metal cutting. The mounting adapters and grommets are our own designs. The harnesses are built to our spec for your car’s factory connectors. The adapters are precisely measured to match your factory mounting points, so no cutting or bending is necessary.

That’s what makes this kit truly plug and play. Your factory speaker connector plugs into our harness. Our harness plugs into the JBL speakers. The adapter bolts to the same holes the factory speaker used. Nothing gets cut, drilled, spliced, or bent.

Will this speaker kit fit my Acura?

Select your vehicle from the drop-down above. If your year and model are listed, this kit is built for it — the adapters and harnesses are cut for your exact factory mounting points and connectors. The hardware in this kit changes depending on the year and model, so make sure to select your car from the dropdown.

Vehicle	Speaker location
2004-2008 Acura TL — Base without Navigation	Rear deck
2004-2008 Acura TL — Tech with Navigation	Rear deck
2007-2008 Acura TL Type S	Rear deck
2007-2013 Acura MDX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door
2007-2012 Acura RDX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door
2009-2014 Acura TSX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door or rear deck
2009-2014 Acura TL — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear deck
2013-2022 Acura ILX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door or rear deck
2013-2019 Acura RDX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door
2013-2020 Acura RLX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door
2014-2020 Acura MDX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear door
2015-2020 Acura TLX — Tech Package with Navigation	Rear deck

If your car isn’t listed it’s possible these speakers will work — call us at 877-542-2872 and we’ll verify. If your car is in these year ranges but is not the Tech package with ELS, there may be other speakers that are a better fit.

If your Acura is 2021 or newer, the rear deck most likely has a separate tweeter in addition to the main speaker. These are coaxial — the tweeter is built into the woofer — so they won’t fill that separate tweeter location. Call us before ordering.

Will these sound better than my factory Acura speakers?

Yes. The factory speakers in your Acura were mass produced with cost in mind, not built for the best possible output. JBL didn’t set out to build a replacement speaker for your Acura, but they built something that works well in one. These have a low impedance suited to your factory system, a stronger magnet, and better cone material — a set that works with your factory amplifier or an aftermarket one and sounds great.

Will these fit in the factory speaker location?

Yes, and that’s the whole point of the kit. Our adapter puts a full 6.5-inch woofer in the factory mounting holes with no cutting and no drilling, in either the rear doors or the rear deck depending on your model.

More cone area means the speaker moves less to hit the same volume, and less movement means less distortion. You hear that as bass lines staying separated instead of blurring together when you turn it up.

The factory speakers also have one thing working against them that these don’t: runtime. Thousands of hours of playtime plus age means cones tear and surrounds crumble. It’s not unusual for someone to pull a factory speaker during this install and find the cone barely attached to the frame at all. Rear deck speakers get the worst of it — years of direct sun through the back glass cooks the surrounds.

Better isn’t the same as louder

Customers consistently report these playing louder than factory after the install, and our own testing measured a 1-2dB increase on certain tracks. That comes from the speaker itself, not from adding power — more cone area and a stronger motor doing more with the watts your amplifier is already sending.

What a new speaker set doesn’t change is the amplifier. Same amp, same power, same ceiling. Some people report a much bigger jump than a couple of dB, but that’s usually because the speaker they pulled out was already damaged. If real volume is what you’re after, these want a high-power amplifier behind them.

How hard is the install, and what does it cost?

Installing it yourself

Rear doors: plan on about 3 hours for the pair with basic hand tools — trim tools, socket set, screwdriver. The hardest part is the door panel, and most of your time goes into the first one.

Rear deck: clear your day. Depending on the model you’ll be pulling the rear seat bottom, the seat back, and the trim covers before you can even see the speakers. Figure 4-6 hours.

Either way, there’s no soldering, no crimping, and no wire stripping. The work is all disassembly.

Having a shop install it

Rear doors: typically 1.5-2 hours of labor, which runs about $150-$250 depending on your area.

Rear deck: $300-400 is realistic, and that’s if the shop quotes it correctly.

Get the quote in writing. Some shops price the rear deck like a door and then come back for more money once they’re three hours in and staring at a seat frame. Ask up front what happens if it takes longer than they estimated.

Shops aren’t fabricating brackets or splicing your harness with this kit, so there’s less to go wrong — some will quote lower once they see it’s plug and play.

What to expect when you call a shop

This part is worth knowing in advance, because it catches people off guard.

Most shops will be skeptical. Some will turn you away outright — plenty of them won’t install equipment they didn’t sell, and that’s their policy, not a judgment about the kit. What works: send them the install video and the product link before you book. Smaller independent shops will usually watch it, see there’s no fabrication and no splicing involved, and take the job.

If a shop tells you the kit won’t work or that your car needs something cut, have them call us. That conversation takes five minutes and we’ve had it many times.

Do I need an amp? What will these speakers work with?

This kit is built to run on your factory system exactly as-is. No amplifier required, no head unit change, nothing else to buy.

It works with:

Your factory amp — no modifications needed
Our plug-and-play amplifiers — the easy path to more power. Vehicle-specific harnesses, no wire running, no cutting, no splicing. Same install philosophy as this kit.
Aftermarket amplifiers — standard speaker-level or line-level connections, nothing unusual about these. If you’re going this route and want real output, look for something 2-ohm stable, which matters with low-impedance speakers. Be aware it’s a full install: power wire from the battery, a mounting location, and signal routing.
Aftermarket head units — works with any standard head unit output

Nothing about this kit locks you into one path. Start on the factory amp today, add an amplifier later, and the speakers and hardware carry over.

Will these speakers damage my Acura’s factory amp?

No. We’ve metered both the factory driver and these side by side, and they present your amplifier with effectively the same load it’s been driving since the car was new. Nothing about this swap asks your factory amp to work harder than it already was.

If your factory amp is already failing

This is worth knowing before you start, and it has nothing to do with the speakers.

If your system already has symptoms — only the tweeters playing, only the rear speakers working, channels cutting in and out, sound that comes and goes — your factory amplifier is already failing. An amp in that condition can finish failing during any work done in the system, speaker swap or not, and you can end up with limited or no sound afterward.

The new speakers don’t cause that. A failing amp gets disturbed by the work and completes a failure that was already underway. We see it most on the 2004-2008 TL, but it happens on other Acuras too.

If your system is doing any of that right now, call us before you order and we’ll talk through it.

What’s included in the rear speaker kit?

This kit covers both rear locations — driver and passenger side.

What you’ll install

2 JBL 6.5″ coaxial speakers — tweeter built into the woofer, no separate tweeter to mount
2 speaker harnesses — built to our spec, factory connector to speaker terminals
2 ABS mounting adapters — our design, factory location, no modification
2 foam gaskets — seal the adapter to the door or deck, cutting rattle and tightening midbass
Mounting hardware — nylon inserts, adapter screws, speaker screws

What you won’t need — and that’s normal

The speakers ship as a universal set, so the box includes parts meant for a generic install. In your Acura, the factory mounting hardware and grilles in that box aren’t used — ours matches the factory location.

Leftover parts in the box means the install went right, not wrong. Keep them or don’t.

Specifications

Model	JBL Club 64SQ
Configuration	2-way coaxial
Woofer size	6.5″ (160 mm)
Power handling (RMS)	75W
Power handling (peak)	225W
Sensitivity (@2.83V)	93 dB
Frequency response	48 Hz – 21 kHz
Nominal impedance	2.7 ohms
Cone	Carbon fiber, Plus One geometry
Magnet	Y40 ferrite
Tweeter	Edge-driven silk dome
Tweeter level control	0 dB / +3 dB switch
Mounting depth	2-1/16″

Thiele-Small parameters

BL (Tm)	3.748
DCR	2.12 ohms
Mms	12.273 g
Sd	132.73 cm²
Cms	530 µm/N
Vas	13.2 l
Fs	62.4 Hz
Qes	0.726
Qms	8.64
Qts	0.670

What if I am not happy with the sound?

If you’re unhappy with the way these speakers sound, it’s usually tuning. The most common feedback we get about any speakers we sell is that the tweeters are bright or the mid-bass isn’t as punchy as before.

Mid-bass

The punch you’re missing is the kick drum or that specific bass note. Your old speakers had a big hump right there. That wasn’t good engineering — it was a cheap speaker resonating in a location that flattered it. It couldn’t play any lower, so everything piled up at that one frequency and got loud. Made kick drums slam. Also made them slam on tracks where the engineer never put much kick, because the speaker added that kick to everything and you got used to it.

These don’t do that. They reproduce the music the way it was recorded. So the kick hits hard on songs recorded with a hard kick, and it doesn’t on songs that weren’t. That’s the difference you’re hearing — you’re getting the real thing instead of an exaggerated copy of it.

What to do: if you have the factory radio, adjust the EQ bass control up +2 or +3. Not more. Past that you’re making distortion at volume, not bass. Don’t reach for the subwoofer level — the factory sub is stuck behind a low-pass filter that cuts off well below where the punch you’re missing lives, so turning it up rattles the rear deck instead of putting the kick back.

If you have an aftermarket radio, put a 2-3dB bump between 60Hz and 80Hz.

If you still want more low end, the factory subwoofer is the weak link. A proper sub setup takes a full-range signal from the door and sub channels together, which gets you past the factory low-pass and lets you cross over where you want it instead of where Acura decided. That’s what our sub and amplifier packages are built to do.

Bright tweeters

Start with the treble control on your radio. Most brightness complaints come down to a treble setting that was compensating for tired factory speakers, and pulling it back a notch or two costs nothing.

Unlike our front kit, these don’t have an external crossover — the tweeter is mounted on the woofer. There’s an output level switch on the speaker itself, marked 0 dB and +3 dB. If yours is set to +3, moving it to 0 will take the edge off.

Worth knowing: rear speakers set louder than they need to be will pull the whole soundstage behind you. If the car sounds bright and like the music is coming from the back seat, try fading forward before you touch anything else.

If none of that gets you where you want, call us. We’ve tuned these in a lot of cars and we can usually tell you what else to try. Reach us at 877-542-2872, Monday through Friday, 10AM to 6PM Eastern.

Returns and warranty

Returns

Unused kits can be returned within 30 days of delivery. Unused means the kit has not been installed in the vehicle in any way — not mounted, not wired, not connected to the car — and comes back in the original packaging with all hardware and accessories included. Once a kit has been connected to your vehicle, it’s considered installed and is no longer eligible for return.

Return shipping is the customer’s responsibility. If the item is defective, we cover return shipping and take care of it from there. There’s no restocking fee — we don’t accept used product back, so there’s nothing to restock.

Full details are in our return policy.

Warranty

All components in this kit are warranted for one year from the date of purchase against defects in materials and workmanship. If a covered part fails within that period, we will repair or replace it at our discretion. Replacement is the sole remedy under this warranty.

Please handle all warranty claims through us rather than contacting the speaker manufacturer. We’ll take care of the claim from start to finish.

This warranty covers parts only. It does not cover shop labor, installation time, or the cost of removing and reinstalling components. It also does not cover damage from improper installation, physical damage, or speakers driven beyond their rated power.

Who do I call for help?

You can reach us Monday through Friday, 10AM to 6PM Eastern, by text or call at 877-542-2872. If you prefer email, you can reach us at sales@mobilemaxcaraudio.com.

Already own the speakers? Get the install hardware only

Get just the hardware — adapters, harnesses, gaskets, and mounting hardware for your car.

Acura Front Door Speaker Upgrade — JBL SQ 6.5″ Speakers, Tweeters & Factory-Fit Wiring and Adapters for ELS & 2Ω Systems

What is the Acura Front Door Speaker Upgrade kit?

The front door upgrade kit is a component set of speakers paired with all the accessories needed to make your install fully plug and play. It requires no wire splicing or metal cutting to install this new set of speakers. The hardware included which are the mounting adapters, tweeter cups, and grommets are all our own designs. The harnesses are built to our spec for your car’s factory connectors. The adapters are all precisely measured to ensure they match your factory mounting points and no metal cutting or bending is necessary.

That’s what makes this kit truly plug and play. Your factory speaker connector plugs into our harness. Our harness plugs into the JBL speakers and tweeters. The adapter bolts to the same holes the factory speaker used. The tweeter cup clips into your factory tweeter housing. Nothing gets cut, drilled, spliced, or bent.

Will this speaker kit fit my Acura?

Select your vehicle from the drop-down above. If your year and model are listed, this kit is built for it — the adapters, harnesses, and tweeter cups are cut for your exact factory mounting points and connectors. The hardware in this kit can change depending on the year and model selection so make sure to select your car from the dropdown. Here is a quick summary of the cars supported.

2004-2008 Acura TL – Base without Navigation
2004-2008 Acura TL – Tech with Navigation
2007-2008 Acura TL Type S
2007-2013 Acura MDX – Tech Package with Navigation
2007-2012 Acura RDX – Tech Package with Navigation
2009-2014 Acura TSX – Tech Package with Navigation
2009-2014 Acura TL – Tech Package with Navigation
2013-2022 Acura ILX – Tech Package with Navigation
2015-2020 Acura TLX – Tech Package with Navigation
2013-2020 Acura RLX – Tech Package with Navigation
2014-2020 Acura MDX – Tech Package with Navigation

If your car isn’t listed is possible these speakers will work and you can call us at 877-542-2872 so we can verify. If your car is in these year ranges but is not the tech package with ELS you might be able to use other speakers that are a better fit. If your Acura is made after 2021 it most likely has a three way system for the front speakers and these will not be a direct replacement.

Will these sound better than my factory Acura speakers?

Yes. The factory speakers in your Acura were built for mass production and cost savings, not for the best possible output. JBL didn’t set out to build a replacement speaker for your Acura, but they built something that works well in one. The JBL speakers have a low impedance suited to your factory system, a better motor design, and better materials that make for a set that works with your factory amplifier or an aftermarket one and sound great.

Will these fit in the factory speaker location?

Ask five people what size speaker is in your Acura’s front doors and you’ll get answers between 5.25 and 6 inches. It’s argued about constantly, and it’s the reason a lot of owners end up shopping for a 5.25 they don’t need. Our adapter settles it: a full 6.5-inch woofer mounts in the factory holes, no cutting, no drilling. More cone area on a stronger motor means a cone that holds its shape when the music gets loud. You hear it as clarity that stays intact at higher volumes and bass lines stay separated instead of blurring together.

The factory speakers also have one thing working against them that the JBLs don’t: runtime. Thousands of hours of playtime plus age means cones tear and surrounds crumble. It’s not unusual for someone to pull a factory speaker during this install and find the cone barely attached to the frame at all.

Better isn’t the same as louder

Customers consistently report the JBLs playing louder than factory after the install, and our own testing measured a 1-2dB increase on certain tracks. That comes from the speaker itself, not from adding power — more cone area, a stronger motor, and a considerably more sensitive tweeter doing more with the watts your amplifier is already sending.

How hard is the install, and what does it cost?

Installing it yourself

Plan on about 3 hours for both front doors with basic hand tools — trim tools, socket set, screwdriver. No soldering, no crimping, no wire stripping. The hardest part is the door panel, and most of your time goes into the first one. Installation instructions and door panel removal videos are available here.

Having a shop install it

Typically 1.5-2 hours of labor, which runs about $150-$250 in labor charges depending on your area. Shops aren’t fabricating brackets or splicing your harness with this kit, so there’s less to go wrong — some will quote lower once they see it’s plug and play.

What to expect when you call a shop

This part is worth knowing in advance, because it catches people off guard.

If a shop tells you the kit won’t work or that your car needs something cut, have them call us. That conversation takes five minutes and we’ve had it many times.

Do I need an amp? What will these speakers work with?

This kit is built to run on your factory system exactly as-is. No amplifier required, no head unit change, nothing else to buy.

It works with:

Your factory amp — no modifications needed
Our plug-and-play amplifiers — the easy path to more power. Vehicle-specific harnesses, no wire running, no cutting, no splicing. Same install philosophy as this kit.
Aftermarket amplifiers — standard speaker-level or line-level connections, nothing unusual about these. If you’re going this route and want real output, the JBL Club A758 is a strong match — eight channels and 2-ohm stable, which matters with low-impedance speakers. Be aware it’s a full install: power wire from the battery, a mounting location, and signal routing.
Aftermarket head units — works with any standard head unit output

Nothing about this kit locks you into one path. Start on the factory amp today, add an amplifier later, and the speakers and hardware carry over.

Will these speakers damage my Acura’s factory amp?

If your factory amp is already failing

This is worth knowing before you start, and it has nothing to do with the speakers.

If your system is doing any of that right now, call us before you order and we’ll talk through it.

What’s included in the front door speaker kit?

This kit covers both front doors — driver and passenger.

What you’ll install

2 JBL 6.5″ woofers — one per front door
2 JBL tweeters — one per side
2 speaker harnesses — our design, factory connector to speaker terminals
2 ABS mounting adapters — ours, factory location, no modification
2 foam gaskets — seal the adapter to the door, cutting rattle and tightening midbass
2 tweeter cups — ours, clip into the factory tweeter housing and hold the JBL tweeter
2 tweeter harnesses — our design, factory tweeter connector to JBL tweeter, with an inline bass-blocking capacitor that keeps low frequencies off the tweeter
Mounting hardware — nylon inserts, adapter screws, speaker screws

What you won’t need — and that’s normal

The speakers ship as a universal component set, so JBL’s box includes parts meant for a generic install. In your Acura, several of them aren’t used:

JBL’s crossovers — optional, and worth keeping. Your tweeter is already protected by the bass-blocking capacitor in our harness, and the crossover’s woofer output is a straight pass-through with no filtering on it, so running the woofer through it does nothing electrically. But the crossover is your tuning option if the highs come out brighter than you like — see the section above.
JBL’s tweeter mounts and cups — not used. Ours clip into your factory tweeter housing instead.
JBL’s mounting hardware and grilles — not used. Ours matches the factory location.

Leftover parts in the box means the install went right, not wrong. Keep them or don’t.

Specifications

Speakers

Model	JBL Club 64CSQ
Configuration	2-way component set
Woofer size	6.5″ (160 mm)
Power handling (RMS)	95W
Power handling (peak)	285W
Sensitivity (@2.83V)	93 dB
Frequency response	48 Hz – 21 kHz
Cone	Carbon fiber, Plus One geometry
Magnet	Y40
Tweeter	Edge-driven silk dome
Crossover	External network, 5 kHz

Thiele-Small parameters

BL (Tm)	3.776
DCR	2.09 ohms
Mms	13.238 g
Sd	132.73 cm²
Cms	0.536 µm/N
Vas	13.3648 l
Fs	59.7 Hz
Qes	0.728
Qms	8.315
Qts	0.670

What if I am not happy with the sound?

If you are unhappy with the ways these speakers sound its usually always tuning. The most common feedback we receive about any speakers we sell is that the tweeters are bright or the mid-bass is not as punchy as before.

Let’s start with the mid-bass, the punch you’re missing is the kick drum or that specific bass note. Your old door speakers had a big hump right there. That wasn’t good engineering, it was a cheap speaker resonating to try and trick you. It couldn’t play any lower, so everything piled up at that one frequency and got loud. Made kick drums slam. Also made them slam on tracks where the engineer never put much kick, because the speaker added that kick to everything and you got used to it.

The JBLs don’t do that. They reproduce the music that was recorded as intended. So the kick hits hard on songs recorded with a hard kick, and it doesn’t on songs that weren’t. That’s the difference you’re hearing — you’re getting the real thing instead of an exaggerated copy of it. The old door woofer used to try to do it all and play notes mostly dedicated for your subwoofer.

What to do:
If you have the factory radio adjust the EQ bass control, +2 or +3 there too. Not more. Past that you’re making distortion at volume, not bass. Don’t mistake it for the subwoofer level that is different and won’t help you with the speakers. If you have an aftermarket radio you can add that boost back by adjust the EQ from 60Hz-80Hz with a 2dB or 3dB bump. If you still want more, the factory sub is the weak link and replacing it is the fix. You can add a dedicated sub in the trunk or upgrade the subwoofer and add another amplifier to feed it more power and really feel the bass in the car.

Now for the one with the easy fix, if your tweeter is too bright the first step is to start with your factory radio or aftermarket radios EQ.
Most brightness complaints come down to a treble setting that was compensating for tired factory speakers. Pulling treble back a notch or two costs nothing and fixes it most of the time. Call us and we’ll walk you through where those settings live in your car if you can’t find them.

Then there’s JBL’s crossover — this is what it’s actually for. Our tweeter harness uses an inline bass-blocking capacitor. It protects the tweeter, keeps the install simple, and runs the tweeter at full level. JBL’s external crossover is a complete filter network instead: it attenuates the tweeter to level-match the woofer, and it rolls off the low end of the tweeter’s range more steeply than a capacitor can. That second part matters more than people expect, because harshness usually lives in the lower treble rather than the very top.

So if the highs are hotter than you want them, wiring in the crossover that came in the JBL box is the fix. It’s more work — the crossover has to be mounted and wired in the door — but it’s a real change in how the tweeter behaves, not just a volume trim.

Either way, call us first. We’ve tuned these in a lot of cars and we can usually tell you which of the two you need in a few minutes.
Reach us at 877-542-2872, Monday through Friday, 10AM to 6PM Eastern.

Returns and warranty

Returns

Full details are in our return policy.

Warranty

Handle all warranty claims through us. Don’t contact JBL — contact us and we’ll take care of the claim from start to finish.

Who do I call for help?

You can reach us Monday through Friday, 10AM to 6PM Eastern, by text or call at 877-542-2872. If you prefer email, you can reach us at sales@mobilemaxcaraudio.com.

Already own the speakers? Get the install hardware only

Get just the hardware — adapters, harnesses, tweeter cups, gaskets, and mounting hardware for your car.

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Acura RDX Navigation Display Screen Upgrade

Summary

Modernize your infotainment system in your Acura RDX with our navigation display screen upgrade. This upgrade is completely plug and play. The new upgraded navigation display is touchscreen and runs a modern operating system that allows you to enjoy Apple CarPlay, Android Auto and Bluetooth Audio Streaming. The new display also allows you to run native apps like youtube and Netflix while connected to the internet.

Installation of the new screen requires completely disassembly of the vehicles factory infotainment system and is quite lengthy. You don’t have to modify any of the vehicles factory wiring but you will have to snake wires and connect them together at different points shown in the installation video. The new upgraded display screen has the ability to show the factory navigation system but it does require a video converter to be added to your harness. The video converter is optional and you don’t need it unless you want to keep the factory navigation system operational. If you install this new display screen you will lose the ability to adjust the factory equalizer inside the factory radio. You can adjust the equalizer from the new display screen to achieve your sound goals but if you like to adjust the factory subwoofer level from song to song that will no longer be possible.

This screen can be installed in vehicles with or without navigation. If you don’t have navigation you will lose the ability to see the current climate information. You can still control the blower speed and temperature inside the car but you will not be able to see the current settings in vehicles without navigation. If you have navigation you can see from the video below that the climate information continues to work like it did before. If you car is a 2010 2011 or 2012 please email us or call us to place your order as this product has not been fully tested on those vehicles yet. The installation should be similar but some parts are different and we want to ensure you get the desired result when you install this item.

At this time we are not selling just the harnesses or brackets. We are only selling complete packages.

Installation

Installing the system requires you to make connections behind the OEM radio and at the factory navigation ROM drive. The factory radio is located right in front of the shifter and you will need to connect wires from the radio to the new display screen. There is plenty of space to run wires behind the OEM radio and display so you can connect everything without issue. The primary power connection for the new display is behind the OEM navigation display. The audio connections for the new display are behind the OEM radio. If you want the steering wheel controls to control the new upgraded display and not the factory radio you will need to connect an additional connector behind the radio and also another wire behind the new display screen. Our recommendation is that you keep the steering wheel controls on the factory radio and only use the audio connector behind the radio. This means you will make one connection behind the radio and one connection behind the screen.

If you are planning on keeping the factory navigation video on the new display screen you will also need the video converter we have available which will raise the price of the product. This is optional and not required but if you do purchase it, it will be wired already you won’t have to make any connections for it. If you want to keep the factory backup camera then you will also need to connect wires at the navigation drive located next to the gas pedal. Follow the instructions shown in the video to make sure all of your connections are correct. Then snake the wire from the navigation drive up the new navigation display.

Non Navigation Vehicles

If your RDX does not have navigation it is referred to as the base model. If you own a base model RDX you can still change the OEM monochrome display with this new touchscreen display but you will lose the ability to see the climate information. Installation is a bit different as all connections are done behind the OEM radio and you will snake the wires from behind the OEM radio up to the new display. With the OEM display removed you won’t be able to see the climate or any of the factory radio information such as radio stations or cd tracks. Instead the OEM radio will just be used as a passthrough for audio. You will leave the factory radio in XM mode and control all audio through the tablet. If you have a base model it makes sense to change the steering wheel controls from the OEM radio to the new tablet by connection the additional harness behind the OEM radio and at the display screen.

Product Feedback

We sell a similar product for the Acura TSX and people really like it. This product is great for those who want a new display and the ability to use Apple CarPlay or Android Auto. This is a perfect fit especially if your factory navigation system is already broken and you don’t care about it. This product is not recommend to anyone who wants build any sort of competition system in audio quality or loudness. You are still limited by the factory amplifier when you install this product and while the system sounds good. If you have to add amplifiers to the system you still have to work with the factory radio and that is always a challenge. If you are more interested in sound quality over software features I recommend replacing the OEM stereo and amplifier we will have videos on how to do that coming soon.

Honda Acura XM AUX Audio RCA Harness

If you want to send audio to your factory radio in your Acura or Honda you can inject audio into the XM audio feed with this harness. This harness will disable the XM radio functionality and instead play your audio source through the XM port. The information shown on the screen will still be from the XM radio so it will either say a radio station or show the subscribe messages but you will hear the audio from your source instead.

This harness is used with the 9″ android screens that are available online in the Acura TL, TSX and MDX currently but you could use it for other stereos. This harness will only work if your car has the factory XM unit.

Acura Honda Door Speaker Spacer Adapters w/ Speaker Harnesses

When replacing the door speakers in your Acura/Honda most speakers require the need to create new holes or to cut the metal of the door. The factory speakers in your Acura are often between 5.25 and 6 inches making installing new speakers complicated.

Our speaker spacer adapters come with the necessary hardware to install onto the factory mounting locations removing the need to cut or drill any metal. Our design utilizes the factory mounting holes to secure the spacer to the door and provide you with new mounting holes for your 6.5 aftermarket speakers. There is no need to cut or modify the door in any way. Our spacer adapter and speaker harness simplifies the install making the speaker installation plug and play. If you are looking to also replace your tweeters we have the tweeter harness necessary to do so.

These spacers are designed to fit traditional full range 6.5 speakers from major brands like Kicker, JBL, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC, Alpine, Infinity, Sony, Rockford Fosgate, Focal, Audison, Hertz and others. Loudspeakers with large magnets will not fit into these spacers or into the cavity of your door. Often brands likes DS18, PRV, Massive, Timpano, Skar, CT Sounds, Deaf Bonce and others make speakers with oversized magnets these are not recommend for your Honda/Acura because of the fitment issues.

These spacers are for

Acura
1999-2003 Acura CL Front Doors Only
2001-2006 Acura MDX Rear Doors Only
2014-2022 Acura ILX All Doors
2023-2025 Acura Integra Front Doors Only
2014-2020 Acura TLX All Doors
2021-2025 Acura TLX All Doors
2009-2013 Acura TL All Doors
2004-2008 Acura TL Front Doors Only
1999-2003 Acura TL All Doors
2004-2013 Acura TSX All Doors
2006-2013 Acura RL Front Doors Only
2007-2020 Acura RDX All Doors
2014-2020 Acura RLX All Doors
2002-2006 Acura RSX Front Doors Only

Honda
2003-2007 Honda Accord Front Doors Only
2008-2022 Honda Accord All Doors
2001-2020 Honda Civic All Doors
2002-2020 Honda CRV All Doors
2014-2020 Honda HRV All Doors
2007-2020 Honda Insight All Doors
2011-2020 Honda Odyssey All Doors
2018-2020 Honda Passport All Doors
2001-2020 Honda Pilot All Doors
2006-2020 Honda Ridgeline All Doors

Acura ELS Audio System DSP Package for Aftermarket Amplifiers

Easily integrate into the factory ELS Audio system in your Acura with our DSP Package designed specifically for your use case. This package is extremely versatile allowing you to install multiple amps or a single amp for your sound system goals. The Powerbass DSP used in this package has 8 inputs and 8 outputs perfect for your Acura’s ELS Audio System. The amplifier used in the ELS system of your Acura is most likely can-bus controlled. This can-bus communication results in the inability to remove the factory amplifier. If you want to make your car sound better or louder you need to integrate into the factory amplifier.

This DSP packages comes wired with the proper harnesses that will allow you to convert the factory amplifiers output signals to a useable RCA signal for your aftermarket amplifiers. The harnesses in this package plug into the factory amplifier and then into the DSP. On the other side of the harnesses there are RCAS outputs that will connect to the input side of your aftermarket amplifier. The last part of the harness is the speaker wire inputs that lead to each speaker in the car they are all labeled and will connect to the output side of your amplifier. The DSP package also has a remote output to turn all of your amplifiers as needed. The turn on signal is delayed and generated by the DSP.

The standard configuration of this package is to leave the center speaker powered by the factory amplifier and capture the output of all the other speakers. The front left door speaker and front left tweeter are summed together to create RCA output 1. The right front door speaker and front right tweeter are summed together to create RCA output 2. The rear door speakers are then set to outputs 3 and 4. The rear deck speakers are set to outputs 5 and 6 and finally the subwoofer is setup as outputs 7 & 8. This configuration is meant for those who want to run multiple amps to power the front doors, rear doors and rear deck speakers and the factory or aftermarket subwoofers.

The second configuration this package offers is to leave the center speaker and the rear door/pillar speakers powered by the factory amplifier and only capture the output of the front speakers/tweeters, the rear deck speakers and the factory subwoofer. This configuration will set RCAs 1 and 2 to the front left and front right outputs, RCA 3 and 4 are the rear deck outputs and outputs 5 & 6 for the subwoofer. This leaves 2 outputs free for any additional purposes. This configuration is usually meant for someone who wants to run a five channel amp to power the entire system.

There are other configurations that are available but these are the main ones. Once your place an order a technician on our team will reach out to you to confirm the configuration for your project. The DSP used in the package is the Powerbass DSP8 it has the ability to sum channels together, remove EQ curves, process time alignment and has a Bluetooth app to make setup easy and simple.

This DSP package installs in the factory amplifier location and is compatible with the following vehicles.
2009-2014 Acura TL
2009-2014 Acura TSX
2007-2013 Acura MDX
2007-2012 Acura RDX
2013-2022 Acura ILX
2015-2022 Acura TLX
2014-2020 Acura RLX

Its possible this DSP package may work with other vehicles not listed here but we have not been able to confirm.

2007 08 09 10 11 2012 Acura RDX PNP Aftermarket Radio Receiver Wiring Harness

If you are having trouble installing a new aftermarket radio in your 1st Generation Acura RDX spanning years 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 or if you want an easy plug-and-play installation, this custom-made wiring harness removes the need for you to do any wiring. After placing your order, our team will create a custom wire harness for your exact aftermarket radio installation. The custom harness we create will allow you to install a new aftermarket car stereo receiver without the need for any wire splicing or wire tapping. This wiring harness, when used with a compatible aftermarket radio, will result in a plug-and-play installation for your Acura. A parking bypass is highly recommended with your order if your radio brand is Pioneer, Kenwood, or Alpine. You can learn more about the bypass and what it does by using this link.

If you replace the audio unit in your Acura RDX you will lose the ability to see the climate control information. You can still control the climate but you will not be able to see the current temperature or blower speed/direction.

On your Acura RDX with the premium audio system our plug-and-play harness integrates with the factory amplifier to retain your front door speakers and tweeters, the rear door speakers, and the factory subwoofer. Our harness uses RCAs to feed a low-level signal from the aftermarket radio to the factory amplifier. Please verify your factory amplifier is working and you aren’t having any volume issues before replacing the factory radio. If you are having volume issues, they are most often caused by the factory amplifier.

On your RDX technology package with the ELS audio system and navigation our ELS Amplifier Interface allows you to retain all the speakers including the center dash speaker, front tweeters, front door speakers, rear door speakers, satellite speakers and the factory subwoofer. Our harness uses RCAs to feed a low-level signal from the aftermarket radio to the factory amplifier while also sending the proper commands to get your audio to full volume via the amplifier interface. Please verify your factory amplifier is working and you aren’t having any volume issues before replacing the factory radio. If you are having volume issues, they are most often caused by the factory amplifier.

If you want to replace your factory amplifier, please check out our plug-and-play amplifier. If you wish to bypass the factory amplifier in your Acura and power your speakers directly from your aftermarket radio, check out the amplifier bypass. If you want to add amplifiers to the factory radio then check out our amplifier integration harness.

This wire harness is comprised of five or six different connectors. There are three connectors that plug into the factory radio wiring harnesses, and then there is one connector that plugs into your specific aftermarket radio. The aftermarket radio-specific connector changes depending on what radio brand or model you are going to install. The three primary connectors that plug into the car remain the same regardless of what radio is being installed. The last two connectors are for the AXSWC steering wheel control interface and the ELS Amplifier Interface. The AXSWC is an additional purchase; it is not included with your wire harness. The wire harness is also color-coded and labeled, so you can easily add a backup camera, an aftermarket amplifier, or a parking bypass yourself.

If you plan to retain your steering wheel controls, you will only be able to keep volume up, volume down, next, previous, and mode. You will not be able to keep the call control buttons. When you replace the radio, you will lose the factory hands-free functionality and the factory XM radio, along with your factory navigation’s audio prompts. The factory navigation will continue to work as long as the factory navigation was working originally.

The new aftermarket radio you choose must have 5/6 RCA ports on the back labeled FL, FR, RR, RL,SUB if your radio does not have these outputs you will need a line out converter.The brands in the selection menu below have been verified by our staff to work with our harness. If you are unsure if your radio will work with our harness, please call us at 877-542-2872. Other radio brands may work with our harness, but they have not been verified by our staff, so they are not listed in the dropdown.

In order to complete your order, we will need your aftermarket radio model number. Please include it in the billing checkout notes, or if you forget, please include a valid phone number at checkout where we may reach you in case of any questions.

If you have questions regarding shipping or product availability, please check out our FAQ Section. If you are having issues with your radio after installation, check out this article.

FAQ.

How Come I Can’t see my Climate Control Information?
– When you replace the audio unit you lose the ability to see the current climate control settings.
Will this allow me to keep my factory navigation working with a new aftermarket radio?
– Yes, your factory navigation will continue to work, but there will be no audio prompts.
Can I add an amplifier and subwoofers to your harness?
– Yes, you can. You will just need to run your RCAs to the back of the radio and wire tap the blue or blue/white wire of the harness.
Do I get to keep the factory backup camera your harness?
– Yes, our harness does not effect the backup camera circuit.
Can I use a random radio I found on Amazon or eBay that has an unknown brand?
Most likely not. If the radio you purchased on Amazon is less than $100, it most likely won’t have all the features and ports needed for you to complete the installation.
Do I get to keep all my speakers?
– Yes, all speakers are retained.
Do I get to keep my steering wheel controls?
-Yes, but an additional part is required. The AXSWC can be found here. You will get to keep volume up, volume down, next, prev, and mode. The call control buttons will not be retained.

2007 08 09 2010 2011 2012 Acura RDX DIY Wire Harness Combo (Non Navigation Only)

If you want to upgrade the audio unit in your Acura RDX from years 2007 to 2012 this DIY Wire Harness Combo comes with all the wiring harnesses necessary to do so. There is no need to cut or splice any of the factory wiring. Instead to install your aftermarket radio simply color match the colors on this harness to the wires on your aftermarket radio harness. This harness combo allows you to retain your factory amplifier, subwoofer, door speakers and tweeters. The new aftermarket radio you choose must have 5/6 RCA ports on the back labeled FL, FR, RR, RL,SUB if your radio does not have these outputs you will need a line out converter.

If you are looking for a wired plug and play solution click here.

Our harness combo utilizes RCA connections to send a low level (0v-4v) audio signal from the back of your new aftermarket radio to the factory amplifier in your Acura RDX. Our harness combo integrates with the factory amplifier to keep all of your speakers working. If you wish to keep the factory steering wheel controls with your new aftermarket radio you may also need the AXSWC steering wheel control interface. If you do plan to retain your steering wheel controls, you will only be able to keep volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode. You will not be able to keep the call control buttons. When you replace the radio you will lose the factory hands free functionality and the factory XM radio along with the factory compass. The factory audio-HVAC display shows the audio and climate control information, if you replace the audio unit you will still be able to control the climate but you will not be able to see the information. You can still change the temperature and the settings but can’t see the current temperature or blower location/speed.

Please verify your factory amplifier is working and you aren’t having any volume issues before replacing the factory radio. If you are having volume issues please check out our plug and play amplifier. If you wish to bypass the factory amplifier in your Acura and power your speakers directly from your aftermarket radio check out the amplifier bypass.

The 17 Pin Grey connector in this combo is used to provide:
– Constant Power = Yellow
– Ground = Black
– Accessory Power = Red
– Illumination = Orange

The 32 Pin Dark Grey connector in this combo is used to:
– Amp Turn On for Factory AMP = Blue
– Retain Amplifier = RCAs
– Steering Wheel Control Leads = Gray & Gray/Black

The 2 Pin Grey connector in this combo is used to provide:
– Antenna Booster Switch Signal = Blue
– AM/FM Antenna = Black

If you have questions regarding shipping or product availability please check out our FAQ Section. If you are having issues with your radio after installation check out this article.

FAQ.

Where do these harnesses connect?
– These harness connect to the Audio Unit harness, the audio unit in your RDX sit below the climate control buttons right in front of the shifter. (see image)
Can I add an amplifier and subwoofers with your harness?
– Yes you can. You will just need run your RCAs to the back of the radio and wire tap the blue or blue/white wire of the harness.
Can I add a backup camera with your harness?
– Yes just follow the instructions provided in the radios owners manual or the cameras manual to complete the installation.
Can I use a random radio I found on Amazon or eBay that has an unknown brand?
– Most likely not. If the radio you purchased on Amazon is less than $100 it most likely won’t have all the features and ports needed for you to complete the installation.
Do I get to keep all my speakers?
– Yes all speakers are retained, except for the center dash speaker.
Do I get to keep my steering wheel controls?
-Yes but an additional part is required. The AXSWC you can find it here. You will get to keep volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode. The call control buttons will not be retained.

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Acura TL Subwoofer Upgrade Instructions

Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the rear seat-back.
Take care not to scratch the body or tear the seat covers.

While pushing down on the rear seat cushion (A), pull the seat hook handles (B) to release the hooks (C).
Remove the seat cushion (A), and release the center seat belt buckles (B) from the slits (C)
Release the seat belts (A) from their guides (B).
Remove the bolts from the base of the seat-back (A)
Remove the rear seat-back (A).
Lift up the bottom of the seat-back.

Push on the seat-back while lifting it up to release the wire loops (B) from the hooks (C) on the body.
Remove rear door weather stripping as needed
Hit the upper clip (A) in the C-pillar trim (B) with a rubber mallet. Hitting the clip breaks the projections (C) on the pin (D) and pushes it into the grommet (E) on the body (F).
NOTE: The upper clip must be replaced with a new one when the C-pillar trim is reinstalled.

NOTE: The upper clip must be replaced with a new one when the A-pillar trim is reinstalled. If you don’t replace the clip the C-Pillar will still lock in place. Also you can repair the existing clip by heating it and then separating it from each other.
Link to clips if you rather replace them – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4B9FCKK
Pull back the top of the C-pillar trim (A) by hand to remove the upper clip (B) from the body (C).
Remove the rear bulkhead cover (A).
Detach the clips with a clip remover.
Lift the rear shelf upward and forward to release the rear hook (B).
Slightly warp the rear shelf to release both side edges from the side curtain airbag inflators, then pull it forward.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the speakers.
Remove the four bolts securing the subwoofer.
Disconnect the factory subwoofer by pinching the connector at the sides and pulling down until it releases. You will need to pull with moderate force.
Secure the new mounting bracket to the rear deck using the factory screws you just removed.
Connect the new subwoofer to the factory connection using the provided harness.
Mount the new subwoofer to the mounting bracket with the supplied mounting screws.
NOTE: It is recommended to apply sound treatment material to the rear deck metal and rear deck cover to reduce unwanted rattles and noise
Reinstall the covers you removed in the reverse order.
NOTE: If the rear deck touches your new subwoofer, trim the rear deck panel so the surround of the subwoofer does not touch or buy longer retaining clips to ensure the rear deck does not touch the subwoofer.
You can use the ones found at this link. https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Panel-Retainer-Chrysler-6503709/dp/B07CJP3X5H/

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Acura TL Factory Radio Removal | Aftermarket Radio Installation Procedure

Your Acura TL has a total of 6 speakers that are powered by the factory amplifier. When replacing the factory radio using our radio kit you are able to keep all of the speakers except the center channel. The front door speakers, tweeters, rear deck speakers and the factory subwoofer will all continue to work; the center dash speaker will not work. Our harness integrates with the factory amplifier to keep all your speakers working. You will also get to keep your steering wheel controls including volume up, volume down, next, prev and mode. The call control buttons will not work. The climate control display will continue to work and show the climate information but won’t show any audio information. The factory XM, HFL and AUX features will no longer work. If you want to retain XM or AUX you will need your new aftermarket radio to have these features.

Your Acura TL with navigation has a total of 10 speakers that are powered by the factory amplifier. When replacing the factory radio using our radio kit you are able to keep all of the speakers. The ELS Amplifier Interface allows you to install the aftermarket radio and keep the factory amplifier. The front door speakers, tweeters, rear door speakers, rear pillar speakers and the factory subwoofer will all continue to work. Our harness integrates with the factory amplifier to keep all your speakers working. You will lose Sirius XM, USB, AUX, OEM Navigation(screen will be black), and the factory backup camera. The factory backup camera can be rerouted to show up on the aftermarket radio(requires additional purchase). The steering wheel controls including volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode will work. The call control buttons are not retained. The factory hands free Bluetooth is disabled and you will need to use the aftermarket radios Bluetooth features. The call control buttons are not retained. The navigation control buttons are not retained.

FAQ.

In my premium audio system, will the display above the radio continue to show climate control information.
– Yes your climate control will continue to function as normal.
In my tech package, will I lose the climate control information?
– Yes the climate information will be lost unless you convert your navigation screen to the audio HVAC display with our harness.
In my tech package, will I lose the factory backup camera?
– Yes the factory backup camera is lost. You can use our camera retention harness to keep it on your aftermarket radio.
Can I use this complete kit on a TL with navigation?
– Yes. But you will need additional parts to convert the climate control display and to keep the factory backup camera.
Can I add an amplifier and subwoofers with your harness?
– Yes you can. You will just need run your RCAs to the back of the radio and wire tap the blue or blue/white wire of the harness.
Can I add a backup camera with your harness?
– Yes just follow the instructions provided in the radios owners manual or the cameras manual to complete the installation.
Can I use a random radio I found on Amazon or eBay that has an unknown brand?
– Most likely not. If the radio you purchased on Amazon is less than $100 it most likely won’t have all the features and ports needed for you to complete the installation.
Do I get to keep all my speakers?
– Yes all speakers are retained on the navigation equipped Acuras, on the base you lose the center dash speaker.
Do I get to keep my steering wheel controls?
– Yes but an additional part is required. The AXSWC in included in this kit. You will get to keep volume up, volume down, next, prev and mode. The call control buttons will not be retained. The navigation control buttons are not retained.