Description
What is the Acura rear door or deck speaker upgrade kit?
The rear door/deck upgrade kit is a pair of coaxial speakers paired with all the accessories needed to make your install fully plug and play. It requires no wire splicing and no metal cutting. The mounting adapters and grommets are our own designs. The harnesses are built to our spec for your car’s factory connectors. The adapters are precisely measured to match your factory mounting points, so no cutting or bending is necessary.
That’s what makes this kit truly plug and play. Your factory speaker connector plugs into our harness. Our harness plugs into the JBL speakers. The adapter bolts to the same holes the factory speaker used. Nothing gets cut, drilled, spliced, or bent.
Will this speaker kit fit my Acura?
Select your vehicle from the drop-down above. If your year and model are listed, this kit is built for it — the adapters and harnesses are cut for your exact factory mounting points and connectors. The hardware in this kit changes depending on the year and model, so make sure to select your car from the dropdown.
| Vehicle | Speaker location |
|---|---|
| 2004-2008 Acura TL — Base without Navigation | Rear deck |
| 2004-2008 Acura TL — Tech with Navigation | Rear deck |
| 2007-2008 Acura TL Type S | Rear deck |
| 2007-2013 Acura MDX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door |
| 2007-2012 Acura RDX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door |
| 2009-2014 Acura TSX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door or rear deck |
| 2009-2014 Acura TL — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear deck |
| 2013-2022 Acura ILX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door or rear deck |
| 2013-2019 Acura RDX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door |
| 2013-2020 Acura RLX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door |
| 2014-2020 Acura MDX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear door |
| 2015-2020 Acura TLX — Tech Package with Navigation | Rear deck |
If your car isn’t listed it’s possible these speakers will work — call us at 877-542-2872 and we’ll verify. If your car is in these year ranges but is not the Tech package with ELS, there may be other speakers that are a better fit.
If your Acura is 2021 or newer, the rear deck most likely has a separate tweeter in addition to the main speaker. These are coaxial — the tweeter is built into the woofer — so they won’t fill that separate tweeter location. Call us before ordering.
Will these sound better than my factory Acura speakers?
Yes. The factory speakers in your Acura were mass produced with cost in mind, not built for the best possible output. JBL didn’t set out to build a replacement speaker for your Acura, but they built something that works well in one. These have a low impedance suited to your factory system, a stronger magnet, and better cone material — a set that works with your factory amplifier or an aftermarket one and sounds great.
Will these fit in the factory speaker location?
Yes, and that’s the whole point of the kit. Our adapter puts a full 6.5-inch woofer in the factory mounting holes with no cutting and no drilling, in either the rear doors or the rear deck depending on your model.
More cone area means the speaker moves less to hit the same volume, and less movement means less distortion. You hear that as bass lines staying separated instead of blurring together when you turn it up.
The factory speakers also have one thing working against them that these don’t: runtime. Thousands of hours of playtime plus age means cones tear and surrounds crumble. It’s not unusual for someone to pull a factory speaker during this install and find the cone barely attached to the frame at all. Rear deck speakers get the worst of it — years of direct sun through the back glass cooks the surrounds.
Better isn’t the same as louder
Customers consistently report these playing louder than factory after the install, and our own testing measured a 1-2dB increase on certain tracks. That comes from the speaker itself, not from adding power — more cone area and a stronger motor doing more with the watts your amplifier is already sending.
What a new speaker set doesn’t change is the amplifier. Same amp, same power, same ceiling. Some people report a much bigger jump than a couple of dB, but that’s usually because the speaker they pulled out was already damaged. If real volume is what you’re after, these want a high-power amplifier behind them.
How hard is the install, and what does it cost?
Installing it yourself
Rear doors: plan on about 3 hours for the pair with basic hand tools — trim tools, socket set, screwdriver. The hardest part is the door panel, and most of your time goes into the first one.
Rear deck: clear your day. Depending on the model you’ll be pulling the rear seat bottom, the seat back, and the trim covers before you can even see the speakers. Figure 4-6 hours.
Either way, there’s no soldering, no crimping, and no wire stripping. The work is all disassembly.
Having a shop install it
Rear doors: typically 1.5-2 hours of labor, which runs about $150-$250 depending on your area.
Rear deck: $300-400 is realistic, and that’s if the shop quotes it correctly.
Get the quote in writing. Some shops price the rear deck like a door and then come back for more money once they’re three hours in and staring at a seat frame. Ask up front what happens if it takes longer than they estimated.
Shops aren’t fabricating brackets or splicing your harness with this kit, so there’s less to go wrong — some will quote lower once they see it’s plug and play.
What to expect when you call a shop
This part is worth knowing in advance, because it catches people off guard.
Most shops will be skeptical. Some will turn you away outright — plenty of them won’t install equipment they didn’t sell, and that’s their policy, not a judgment about the kit. What works: send them the install video and the product link before you book. Smaller independent shops will usually watch it, see there’s no fabrication and no splicing involved, and take the job.
If a shop tells you the kit won’t work or that your car needs something cut, have them call us. That conversation takes five minutes and we’ve had it many times.
Do I need an amp? What will these speakers work with?
This kit is built to run on your factory system exactly as-is. No amplifier required, no head unit change, nothing else to buy.
It works with:
- Your factory amp — no modifications needed
- Our plug-and-play amplifiers — the easy path to more power. Vehicle-specific harnesses, no wire running, no cutting, no splicing. Same install philosophy as this kit.
- Aftermarket amplifiers — standard speaker-level or line-level connections, nothing unusual about these. If you’re going this route and want real output, look for something 2-ohm stable, which matters with low-impedance speakers. Be aware it’s a full install: power wire from the battery, a mounting location, and signal routing.
- Aftermarket head units — works with any standard head unit output
Nothing about this kit locks you into one path. Start on the factory amp today, add an amplifier later, and the speakers and hardware carry over.
Will these speakers damage my Acura’s factory amp?
No. We’ve metered both the factory driver and these side by side, and they present your amplifier with effectively the same load it’s been driving since the car was new. Nothing about this swap asks your factory amp to work harder than it already was.
If your factory amp is already failing
This is worth knowing before you start, and it has nothing to do with the speakers.
If your system already has symptoms — only the tweeters playing, only the rear speakers working, channels cutting in and out, sound that comes and goes — your factory amplifier is already failing. An amp in that condition can finish failing during any work done in the system, speaker swap or not, and you can end up with limited or no sound afterward.
The new speakers don’t cause that. A failing amp gets disturbed by the work and completes a failure that was already underway. We see it most on the 2004-2008 TL, but it happens on other Acuras too.
If your system is doing any of that right now, call us before you order and we’ll talk through it.
What’s included in the rear speaker kit?
This kit covers both rear locations — driver and passenger side.
What you’ll install
- 2 JBL 6.5″ coaxial speakers — tweeter built into the woofer, no separate tweeter to mount
- 2 speaker harnesses — built to our spec, factory connector to speaker terminals
- 2 ABS mounting adapters — our design, factory location, no modification
- 2 foam gaskets — seal the adapter to the door or deck, cutting rattle and tightening midbass
- Mounting hardware — nylon inserts, adapter screws, speaker screws
What you won’t need — and that’s normal
The speakers ship as a universal set, so the box includes parts meant for a generic install. In your Acura, the factory mounting hardware and grilles in that box aren’t used — ours matches the factory location.
Leftover parts in the box means the install went right, not wrong. Keep them or don’t.
Specifications
| Model | JBL Club 64SQ |
|---|---|
| Configuration | 2-way coaxial |
| Woofer size | 6.5″ (160 mm) |
| Power handling (RMS) | 75W |
| Power handling (peak) | 225W |
| Sensitivity (@2.83V) | 93 dB |
| Frequency response | 48 Hz – 21 kHz |
| Nominal impedance | 2.7 ohms |
| Cone | Carbon fiber, Plus One geometry |
| Magnet | Y40 ferrite |
| Tweeter | Edge-driven silk dome |
| Tweeter level control | 0 dB / +3 dB switch |
| Mounting depth | 2-1/16″ |
Thiele-Small parameters
| BL (Tm) | 3.748 |
|---|---|
| DCR | 2.12 ohms |
| Mms | 12.273 g |
| Sd | 132.73 cm² |
| Cms | 530 µm/N |
| Vas | 13.2 l |
| Fs | 62.4 Hz |
| Qes | 0.726 |
| Qms | 8.64 |
| Qts | 0.670 |
What if I am not happy with the sound?
If you’re unhappy with the way these speakers sound, it’s usually tuning. The most common feedback we get about any speakers we sell is that the tweeters are bright or the mid-bass isn’t as punchy as before.
Mid-bass
The punch you’re missing is the kick drum or that specific bass note. Your old speakers had a big hump right there. That wasn’t good engineering — it was a cheap speaker resonating in a location that flattered it. It couldn’t play any lower, so everything piled up at that one frequency and got loud. Made kick drums slam. Also made them slam on tracks where the engineer never put much kick, because the speaker added that kick to everything and you got used to it.
These don’t do that. They reproduce the music the way it was recorded. So the kick hits hard on songs recorded with a hard kick, and it doesn’t on songs that weren’t. That’s the difference you’re hearing — you’re getting the real thing instead of an exaggerated copy of it.
What to do: if you have the factory radio, adjust the EQ bass control up +2 or +3. Not more. Past that you’re making distortion at volume, not bass. Don’t reach for the subwoofer level — the factory sub is stuck behind a low-pass filter that cuts off well below where the punch you’re missing lives, so turning it up rattles the rear deck instead of putting the kick back.
If you have an aftermarket radio, put a 2-3dB bump between 60Hz and 80Hz.
If you still want more low end, the factory subwoofer is the weak link. A proper sub setup takes a full-range signal from the door and sub channels together, which gets you past the factory low-pass and lets you cross over where you want it instead of where Acura decided. That’s what our sub and amplifier packages are built to do.
Bright tweeters
Start with the treble control on your radio. Most brightness complaints come down to a treble setting that was compensating for tired factory speakers, and pulling it back a notch or two costs nothing.
Unlike our front kit, these don’t have an external crossover — the tweeter is mounted on the woofer. There’s an output level switch on the speaker itself, marked 0 dB and +3 dB. If yours is set to +3, moving it to 0 will take the edge off.
Worth knowing: rear speakers set louder than they need to be will pull the whole soundstage behind you. If the car sounds bright and like the music is coming from the back seat, try fading forward before you touch anything else.
If none of that gets you where you want, call us. We’ve tuned these in a lot of cars and we can usually tell you what else to try. Reach us at 877-542-2872, Monday through Friday, 10AM to 6PM Eastern.
Returns and warranty
Returns
Unused kits can be returned within 30 days of delivery. Unused means the kit has not been installed in the vehicle in any way — not mounted, not wired, not connected to the car — and comes back in the original packaging with all hardware and accessories included. Once a kit has been connected to your vehicle, it’s considered installed and is no longer eligible for return.
Return shipping is the customer’s responsibility. If the item is defective, we cover return shipping and take care of it from there. There’s no restocking fee — we don’t accept used product back, so there’s nothing to restock.
Full details are in our return policy.
Warranty
All components in this kit are warranted for one year from the date of purchase against defects in materials and workmanship. If a covered part fails within that period, we will repair or replace it at our discretion. Replacement is the sole remedy under this warranty.
Please handle all warranty claims through us rather than contacting the speaker manufacturer. We’ll take care of the claim from start to finish.
This warranty covers parts only. It does not cover shop labor, installation time, or the cost of removing and reinstalling components. It also does not cover damage from improper installation, physical damage, or speakers driven beyond their rated power.
Who do I call for help?
You can reach us Monday through Friday, 10AM to 6PM Eastern, by text or call at 877-542-2872. If you prefer email, you can reach us at sales@mobilemaxcaraudio.com.
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