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2007 08 09 2010 2011 2012 Acura RDX DIY Wire Harness Combo (Non Navigation Only)

If you want to upgrade the audio unit in your Acura RDX from years 2007 to 2012 this DIY Wire Harness Combo comes with all the wiring harnesses necessary to do so. There is no need to cut or splice any of the factory wiring. Instead to install your aftermarket radio simply color match the colors on this harness to the wires on your aftermarket radio harness. This harness combo allows you to retain your factory amplifier, subwoofer, door speakers and tweeters. The new aftermarket radio you choose must have 5/6 RCA ports on the back labeled FL, FR, RR, RL,SUB if your radio does not have these outputs you will need a line out converter.

If you are looking for a wired plug and play solution click here.

Our harness combo utilizes RCA connections to send a low level (0v-4v) audio signal from the back of your new aftermarket radio to the factory amplifier in your Acura RDX. Our harness combo integrates with the factory amplifier to keep all of your speakers working. If you wish to keep the factory steering wheel controls with your new aftermarket radio you may also need the AXSWC steering wheel control interface. If you do plan to retain your steering wheel controls, you will only be able to keep volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode. You will not be able to keep the call control buttons. When you replace the radio you will lose the factory hands free functionality and the factory XM radio along with the factory compass. The factory audio-HVAC display shows the audio and climate control information, if you replace the audio unit you will still be able to control the climate but you will not be able to see the information. You can still change the temperature and the settings but can’t see the current temperature or blower location/speed.

Please verify your factory amplifier is working and you aren’t having any volume issues before replacing the factory radio. If you are having volume issues please check out our plug and play amplifier. If you wish to bypass the factory amplifier in your Acura and power your speakers directly from your aftermarket radio check out the amplifier bypass.

The 17 Pin Grey connector in this combo is used to provide:
– Constant Power = Yellow
– Ground = Black
– Accessory Power = Red
– Illumination = Orange

The 32 Pin Dark Grey connector in this combo is used to:
– Amp Turn On for Factory AMP = Blue
– Retain Amplifier = RCAs
– Steering Wheel Control Leads = Gray & Gray/Black

The 2 Pin Grey connector in this combo is used to provide:
– Antenna Booster Switch Signal = Blue
– AM/FM Antenna = Black

If you have questions regarding shipping or product availability please check out our FAQ Section. If you are having issues with your radio after installation check out this article.

FAQ.

  1. Where do these harnesses connect?
    – These harness connect to the Audio Unit harness, the audio unit in your RDX sit below the climate control buttons right in front of the shifter. (see image)
  2. Can I add an amplifier and subwoofers with your harness?
    – Yes you can. You will just need run your RCAs to the back of the radio and wire tap the blue or blue/white wire of the harness.
  3. Can I add a backup camera with your harness?
    – Yes just follow the instructions provided in the radios owners manual or the cameras manual to complete the installation.
  4. Can I use a random radio I found on Amazon or eBay that has an unknown brand?
    – Most likely not. If the radio you purchased on Amazon is less than $100 it most likely won’t have all the features and ports needed for you to complete the installation.
  5. Do I get to keep all my speakers?
    – Yes all speakers are retained, except for the center dash speaker.
  6. Do I get to keep my steering wheel controls?
    -Yes but an additional part is required. The AXSWC you can find it here. You will get to keep volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode. The call control buttons will not be retained.

2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Acura RLX Subwoofer Upgrade

  1. Remove the bolt (A) between the rear seat-back (B) and the rear seat cushion (C).
  2. Release the hooks (A).
    While pushing down on the seat cushion (B), pull the seat hook handles (C) to release the hooks.
    Remove the rear seat cushion.
    With rear seat cushion heater: Disconnect the rear seat cushion heater connector (D).

  3. Pull out the center seat belt (A) through the slit in the center seat belt guide (B).
  4. Remove the bolts (A). With rear seat-back heater: Disconnect the rear seat-back heater connector (B).
  5. Remove the rear seat-back (A).
  6. Remove rear door opening seal (A) as needed.
    Remove the C-pillar trim (B).
    With rear window sunshade: Release the guide rail (C) from the rear window sunshade wire (D).

  7. With rear window sunshade: If necessary, remove the guide rail (A).
  8. Remove the trunk upper trim panel (B).
  9. Without rear window sunshade: Disconnect the high mount brake light connector (A).
  10. Remove the rear shelf trim (A).Disconnect the tweeter connectors

  11. Remove the subwoofer (A). Disconnect the subwoofer connector. Remove the baffle plate (B).

  12. Disconnect the factory subwoofer by pinching the connector at the sides and pulling down until it releases. You will need to pull with moderate force.
  13. Secure the new mounting bracket to the rear deck using the factory screws you just removed.
  14. Connect the new subwoofer to the factory connection using the provided harness.
  15. Mount the new subwoofer to the mounting bracket with the supplied mounting screws.
    NOTE: It is recommended to apply sound treatment material to the rear deck metal and rear deck cover to reduce unwanted rattles and noise
  16. Reinstall the covers you removed in the reverse order.
    NOTE: If the rear deck touches your new subwoofer, trim the rear deck panel so the surround of the subwoofer does not touch or buy longer retaining clips to ensure the rear deck does not touch the subwoofer.
    You can use the ones found at this link. https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Panel-Retainer-Chrysler-6503709/dp/B07CJP3X5H/

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Acura ILX Subwoofer Upgrade Instructions

  1. Remove the bolt (A) between the rear seat-back (B) and the rear seat cushion (C).
  2. While pushing down on the seat cushion (A), pull the seat hook handles (B) to release the hooks (C).
  3. Remove the bolt (A) securing the seat side bolster (B)
  4. Lift up the seat side bolster (A) to release the hook (B), then remove the side bolster. Remove both bolsters
  5. Remove rear door opening seal (A) as needed.
    – Pull out the C-pillar trim (B) to release the clips.
    – Remove the C-pillar trim.
    NOTE: The front clip (C) will stay in the body.
  6. Remove the front clip (A).
  7. From the trunk compartment, detach the clips (A)
  8. Release the hooks (A).
  9. Pull out both rear seat belts (A) and the rear center seat belt (B) through the slits in the rear shelf trim (C), then remove the rear shelf trim.
  10. Remove the four bolts securing the subwoofer.
  11. Disconnect the factory subwoofer by pinching the connector at the sides and pulling down until it releases. You will need to pull with moderate force.
  12. Secure the new mounting bracket to the rear deck using the factory screws you just removed.
  13. Connect the new subwoofer to the factory connection using the provided harness.
  14. Mount the new subwoofer to the mounting bracket with the supplied mounting screws.
    NOTE: It is recommended to apply sound treatment material to the rear deck metal and rear deck cover to reduce unwanted rattles and noise
  15. Reinstall the covers you removed in the reverse order.
    NOTE: If the rear deck touches your new subwoofer, trim the rear deck panel so the surround of the subwoofer does not touch or buy longer retaining clips to ensure the rear deck does not touch the subwoofer.
    You can use the ones found at this link. https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Panel-Retainer-Chrysler-6503709/dp/B07CJP3X5H/

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Acura TSX Subwoofer Upgrade Instructions

  1. Remove these items:
    -Rear door opening seal, as needed
  2. Hit the upper clip (A) in the C-pillar trim (B) with a rubber mallet. The clip is located under the point where the triangle mark (C) on the edge of the trim indicates. Hitting the clip breaks the projections (D) on the pin (E) and pushes it into the grommet (F) and against the body (G).

    NOTE: The upper clip must be replaced with a new one when the C-pillar trim is reinstalled.


    NOTE: The upper clip must be replaced with a new one when the A-pillar trim is reinstalled. If you don’t replace the clip the C-Pillar will still lock in place. Also you can repair the existing clip by heating it and then separating it from each other.
    Link to clips if you rather replace them – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4B9FCKK
  3. Pull back the top of the C-pillar trim (A) by hand to remove the upper clip (B) from the body (C)


  4. Fold down the rear seat-backs.

  5. If the rear bulkhead cover and the rear shelf are to be removed, turn the high mount brake light socket (A) 45 ° counterclockwise to remove the socket from the trunk compartment.


  6. Remove the rear bulkhead cover (A).
    1. Remove the belt hole cover (B) by releasing the hooks (C).
    2. Gently pull back the front edge of the cover to detach the clips (D).
    3. Pull up the cover to detach the clips (E) fastening it to the body, and the clips (F) fastening it to the rear shelf (G).
    4. Lift the cover upward and forward to release each anchor rod (H) out through the holes in the cover.
    5. Pull out both rear seat belts (I) and rear center seat belt (J) through the slits and the hole in the cover.
    6. Carefully move the cover above the rear wheelhouse gussets (K), then remove it.

    7. Remove the rear speaker grille (A).
      Pry up at the notch (B) with a flat-tip screwdriver, of the grille to release the hook (C).
      Pull up along the edge of the grille to detach the clips and release the hooks (D).
      Pull back the grille to release the hooks (E) from the rear shelf (F).

    8. Remove the rear shelf (A).
      Detach the clips with a clip remover.
      Lift the rear shelf upward and forward to release the rear hook (B).
      Slightly warp the rear shelf to release both side edges from the side curtain airbag inflators, then pull it forward.
      NOTE: Be careful not to damage the speakers.

    9. Remove the four bolts securing the subwoofer.
    10. Disconnect the factory subwoofer by pinching the connector at the sides and pulling down until it releases. You will need to pull with moderate force.
    11. Secure the new mounting bracket to the rear deck using the factory screws you just removed.
    12. Connect the new subwoofer to the factory connection using the provided harness.
    13. Mount the new subwoofer to the mounting bracket with the supplied mounting screws.
      NOTE: It is recommended to apply sound treatment material to the rear deck metal and rear deck cover to reduce unwanted rattles and noise.
    14. Reinstall the covers you removed in the reverse order.
      NOTE: If the rear deck touches your new subwoofer, trim the rear deck panel so the surround of the subwoofer does not touch or buy longer retaining clips to ensure the rear deck does not touch the subwoofer.
      You can use the ones found at this link. https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Panel-Retainer-Chrysler-6503709/dp/B07CJP3X5H/

2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Acura TSX Factory Radio Removal | Aftermarket Radio Installation Procedure

Your Base Acura TSX has a total of 7 speakers that are powered by the factory amplifier. When replacing the factory radio using our complete kit you are able to keep all of the speakers. The front door speakers, tweeters, rear deck speakers and the factory subwoofer will all continue to work. Our harness integrates with the factory amplifier to keep all your speakers working. If your factory amplifier does not work this kit will not work.

Your Tech Package or Navigation equipped TSX has a total of 10 speakers that are powered by the factory amplifier. When replacing the factory radio using our complete kit you are able to keep all the speakers. The way the ELS Amplifier Interface retains the factory amplifier is by feeding left and right audio from the aftermarket radio to the factory amplifier and the factory amplifier up-mixes the audio from stereo to 5.1 surround.

You will lose Sirius XM, AUX Input and the factory handsfree link functionality. The steering wheel controls including volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode will work. The call control buttons are not retained. The navigation control buttons are not retained.

FAQ.

  1. In my premium audio system, will the display above the radio continue to show climate control information.
    – Yes your climate control will continue to function as normal.
  2. In my tech package, will I lose the climate control information?
    – Yes the climate information will be lost unless you convert your navigation screen to the audio HVAC display with our harness.
  3. In my tech package, will I lose the factory backup camera?
    – Yes the factory backup camera is lost. You can use our camera retention harness to keep it on your aftermarket radio.
  4. Can I use this complete kit on a TSX with navigation?
    – Yes. But you will need additional parts to convert the climate control display and to keep the factory backup camera.
  5. Can I add an amplifier and subwoofers with your harness?
    – Yes you can. You will just need run your RCAs to the back of the radio and wire tap the blue or blue/white wire of the harness.
  6. Can I add a backup camera with your harness?
    – Yes just follow the instructions provided in the radios owners manual or the cameras manual to complete the installation.
  7. Can I use a random radio I found on Amazon or eBay that has an unknown brand?
    – Most likely not. If the radio you purchased on Amazon is less than $100 it most likely won’t have all the features and ports needed for you to complete the installation.
  8. Do I get to keep all my speakers?
    – Yes all speakers are retained.
  9. Do I get to keep my steering wheel controls?
    – Yes but an additional part is required. The AXSWC in included in this kit. You will get to keep volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode. The call control buttons will not be retained. The navigation control buttons are not retained.

2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Acura MDX Factory Radio Removal | Aftermarket Radio Installation Procedure

Your Acura MDX without navigation has a total of 6 speakers that are powered by the factory amplifier. When replacing the factory radio using our complete kit you are able to keep all of the speakers except the center channel. The front door speakers, tweeters, rear deck speakers and the factory subwoofer will all continue to work; the center dash speaker will not work. You will also lose the factory hands free functionality and the factory XM functionality. Our harness integrates with the factory amplifier to keep all your speakers working. If your factory amplifier does not work this kit will not work.

Your Acura MDX with navigation has a total of 8 speakers that are powered by factory amplifier. When replacing the factory radio using our complete kit you get to keep all the speakers including the factory subwoofer, door speakers, center speaker and tweeters. Our harness along with the amplifier interface allows you to keep the factory amplifier and keep all your speakers working. Your factory backup camera will continue to work but you will not be able to control the navigation. In the 2007-2009 MDX you will also need the factory navigation to not loose power to keep your camera working. In the 2010-2013 Acura MDX the backup camera is directly wired to the factory screen so it will continue to work. You will also lose the factory hands free functionality and the factory XM functionality. The rear entertainment will also no longer work.

When replacing the factory radio you will lose Sirius XM and the factory handsfree link functionality. The steering wheel controls including volume up, volume down, next, previous and mode will work. The call control buttons are not retained. The navigation control buttons are not retained.

FAQ

  1. Can I add an amplifier and subwoofers with your harness?
    – Yes you can. You will just need run your RCAs to the back of the radio and wire tap the blue or blue/white wire of the harness.
  2. Can I add a backup camera with your harness?
    – Yes just follow the instructions provided in the radios owners manual or the cameras manual to complete the installation.
  3. Can I use a random radio I found on Amazon or eBay that has an unknown brand?
    – Most likely not. If the radio you purchased on Amazon is less than $100 it most likely won’t have all the features and ports needed for you to complete the installation.
  4. Do I get to keep all my speakers?
    – Yes all speakers are retained. On non nav models the center dash speaker is lost.
  5. Do I get to keep my steering wheel controls?
    – Yes but an additional part is required. The AXSWC in included in this kit. You will get to keep volume up, volume down, next, prev and mode. The call control buttons will not be retained.
  6. How do I get the radio to dim when I turn on the headlights?
    -You will need to wire tap the wire show in this picture and attach it to the orange or orange/white wire in your harness.

 

2007 2008 09 10 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Acura ELS Audio Amplifier Retention Interface

If you have any of the following Acura’s including the Acura ILX, Acura TL, Acura MDX, Acura RDX, and Acura TSX from years 2007 to 2014 with the ELS system you can now replace the factory radio and keep the factory amplifier in place to power all of your speakers. The factory amplifier requires digital volume control which is achieved with our interface and a dedicated external volume knob. Instructions

This interface will come with proper connector for your vehicle and you will have to connect two additional wires. You will have to connect the red wire to accessory power and the black wire to ground. This interface will plug in behind the radio. We will reach out via text to confirm all the details so please use a valid phone number when ordering.

This integration does not keep the factory navigation working. You can retain your navigation if your car has a DVD based navigation unit somewhere in the car. The 2010 and up Acuras all have Hard Drive based navigation so you will not be able to retain it. You can only retain the navigation in some 2007-2009 Acuras. You can not retain the navigation in any 2009-2013 Acura TL.

This interface allows you to control the volume of the factory amplifier. This interface does not allow you to control balance and fader. You can change the EQ on the radio for the desired sound but the factory amplifier will still keep the factory crossovers in place. The factory amplifier only uses the FL and FR audio outputs of the aftermarket radio and expects the voltage of the RCAs to be between 0v- 1.3v. This means this interface can work with almost any aftermarket radio. Along with this interface you will still need the other necessary harnesses to install you aftermarket radio. You will not have the ability to fade the audio between the front and back but you can balance between left and right.

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 Acura TSX Aftermarket Subwoofer Integration T-Harness

Do you want to add aftermarket subwoofers to your Acura TSX? If you have a TSX from 2004 to 2008 that uses the factory amplifier (they all do unless you removed it) then you can use this t harness to get a low level sub signal (0v-3v) from the factory radio and the switched 12v amp turn on as well from one location without removing the radio.

This harness connects to the factory amplifier plug and gives you a pair of RCA out (RL and RR) and a remote lead (12v power) for your aftermarket amplifier. It makes adding a dedicated subwoofer amp easy and you can use it with the factory radio or an aftermarket radio if you use one of our DIY or plug and play harness to install your radio.

This is a low level signal with 3V of output at max volume. This harness will be all you need you will not need a line out converter.

If you are using an aftermarket radio installed with our accessories then this harness will allow to add an amplifier for subwoofers without removing the radio.

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Acura Speaker Installation Instructions – DIY How To

Here is the pdf version

  1. Open the door all the way to ensure you have enough room to work with and the door won’t hit anything. If you rather follow video instructions checkout our YouTube channel @acurauadiogarage.
  2. Roll up the window and find a comfortable seat.
  3. Remove any items from the door panel storage areas.
  4. Use a pry tool or small flat head screwdriver to expose screws hidden behind covers and removal panels. Screws are often hidden behind the door handle or arm rest.
  5. Depending on the Acura you will also have screws on the edges of the door panel to check for any hidden screws or screws with covers on them.
  6. After locating all the screws in your Acura remove them and begin prying the door panel from the bottom with a pry tool.
  7. The pry tool goes between the door panel and the metal of the door. The door panel is held on with plastic clips that are pressed into the metal of the door when they release they will make a loud noise. The noise is normal, you have not broken anything.If your door panel does not release easily you might have missed a screw.
  8. Stand up and lift the door panel towards your head no not yank or pull it harshly. Attached to the door panels are different cables you will need to remove. You might need a buddy to hold the panel while you disconnect
  9. Disconnect the door latch and lock cables from the door panel. These cables are made of metal so be careful as they will easily break the plastic they are attached to. On most Acura’s made after 2009 you can unclip the entire door handle from the door panel. On older Acuras you will need to unclip the cables from the door panel.
  10. Next Disconnect the electrical cable connectors from the door panel. Almost all of the electrical connectors will have triggers or tabs that you must press down on to release them from the mating connection.
  11. Now with all cables disconnected you can set the door panel to the side and start the removal of the speaker. There are 1 to 3 visible screws holding on your factory speaker.
  12. Remove all the screws and then pry the speaker from the top. If your speaker does not have any screws you must just pry against it from the top with a flathead screwdriver. After prying the top of the speaker the speaker will separate from the door panel but it might not come all the way out. Next you will need to lift the speaker towards you to release the holding tabs from the door.
  13. Disconnect the speaker from the factory connector. This connector has two triggers or tabs on the side that you must squeeze to release the speaker. These sometimes are hard to come off and you will need to wiggle them out. Remove the speaker and place it to the side.
  14. Place the correct plastic inserts into the door. The white inserts are for Acuras made after 2009. The black inserts are for Acuras from before 2009. There are special inserts for the 2nd gen TSX and accord. After matching all the inserts to the proper wholes you may mount the spacer.
  15. Line up the speaker spacer with the matching holes of the door cavity and insert locations. Regardless of the year 3 mounting screws will be used to secure the spacer to the door. Apply the gasket foam tape to the back of the spacer and begin securing it to the door.
  16. Secure the spacer to the door using the provided 3 long black screws. We recommend hand tightening these screws.
  17. Prepare your speaker for installation, attach the acura speaker harness to the speakers and locate your 4 mounting screws.
  18. Connect your speaker to the factory harness and use the 4 mounting screws to mount the speaker to the speaker spacer. Only utilize the holes already made on the spacer and do not drill new holes. When mounting the speaker make sure that the final position of the speaker does not allow for the speaker terminals to touch the metal of the door. This will create a short.
  19. Test the speaker by playing audio through your system to make sure it is working as expected and securely mounted so it will not rattle.
  20. Grab the door panel and begin plugging in the electrical connectors and mount the door lock and latch cables back.
  21. When installing the door panel back on the door make sure to not scratch or damage the speaker. If you find that your speaker/spacer combination is touching the door panel or not allowing it to sit flush. You can use a box cutter to trim ¼ inch from the plastic that surrounds the factory speaker on the door panel. Removing some plastic will allow it to sit flush.
  22. Slide the door panel into place and then press it onto the door so that the clips engage back onto the mounting locations. You want to make sure you slide the door panel over any edges or components it was originally over such as the window track or the door latch.
  23. After the door panel is mounted you can reinstall the screws and covers you removed. Once the panel is fully installed the door panel will sit close to but will not touch the new speaker you installed. You can shine a flashlight into the speaker grill to verify.

 

Honda Civic Accord Kicker 8″ Factory Subwoofer Replacement

Looking for a replacement sub woofer for your Honda Accord or Honda Civic that fits in the factory location? This is it! When replacing your factory subwoofer the three main challenges are that it must be a free air subwoofer as the factory subwoofer is not fully enclosed, that it must be 8 inches and not exceed 6 inches in depth and that its final impedance must be two ohms. This subwoofer meets all of those criteria and fits into the factory location with the use of an adapter bracket. If you are replacing the subwoofer in the 2008-2010 and 2012-2020 Honda Accord you might need to modify the factory opening by bending the metal to help the subwoofer wiring fit into place. If you are installing this subwoofer in a 2006-2011 Honda Civic you will have to make modifications to the metal around the subwoofer. This subwoofer does not work on the 2006-2011 Honda Civic Coupe (2 Door Models).

This replacement sub works with the factory amp but can be amplified with other amplifiers if wanted. We recommend you sound deaden the rear deck and the rear deck cover if you will be using another amp to power the sub. This sub can handle up to 150Watts RMS. This subwoofer will not rattle your car apart but it will give you better bass response. This subwoofer works best with one of our plug and play amplifiers or a aftermarket amplifier to power it.

This package comes with the adapter needed to mount the aftermarket sub in the factory location and a harness to connect to the factory subwoofer connector so the install is as easy as possible. Once a subwoofer is installed and powered on it is not eligible for return only exchange.

 

2009 10 11 12 13 14 15 2016 Honda Accord EX EX-L 5 Channel PNP Amplifier

If you are looking to upgrade the factory amplifier in your 2008 to 2016 Honda Accord this amplifier is a great upgrade that doesn’t require permanent modifications. This amplifier is fully plug and play, there is no wiring necessary to install it. This amplifier can replace your Hondas’s failing factory amplifier and doesn’t require you to install new speakers. Your Honda Accord must have a factory amplifier for this amplifier to work. If you have the factory rear subwoofer then this amplifier will work for your car. You can also use this amplifier to power aftermarket speakers. This amplifier provides 80 watts of output per channel @ 2 ohms and 40 watts of power @ 4 ohms. The subwoofer portion of this amplifier can provide up to 200 watts of power to a 2ohm subwoofer or 100 watts of power to a 4ohm subwoofer.

This is a class D amplifier that produces 80 watts of power for each door speaker 200watts of power for the subwoofer at 2ohms. At 4ohms this amplifier produces 40 watts to each door speakers and 100 watts to the subwoofer. Your factory amplifier has a rough output of 20 watts per door speaker and 40 watts for the subwoofer. This amplifier theoretically will produce either double or quadruple the power of the factory amplifier resulting in a system @2 ohms that will sound almost twice as loud as the factory amplifier.

When installing the amplifier we also recommend replacing the factory subwoofer at the same time. The factory subwoofer works with the PNP amp but it will require that your turn the amplifier output down significantly leaving a ton of power on the table. If you are planning to also upgrade the speakers we recommend using 2 ohm speakers from companies like JBL, Infinity, Powerbass, Focal or Audison. Two ohm speakers will allow you to get the most power/volume from the new upgraded amplifier. You can view our speakers here. Also if you are upgrading the subwoofer you want to look for an 8 inch free air capable subwoofer or use the subwoofer output of the amplifier to power an enclosed subwoofer that you can store in the trunk. You can view our subwoofers here.

This package is not meant for bass heads who want to shake the neighborhood when they drive by, it is for someone who wants a balanced audio system with great bass response. This upgrade will make your car noticeably louder and you will feel the bass. Installation is easy and the system comes preconfigured depending on your selections.

Polyurethane Sound Deadening Roller

When applying sound deadening material to metal surface you need to apply pressure against it so that it sticks properly. This pressure is normally applied with a roller like this one. This roller is the perfect size to apply sound deadening material in your trunk or door panel without any issues.